On Friday, 2 October, ISSEY MIYAKE presented its Spring Summer 2027 collection, Figure of Ma, at the Dojo de Paris. The collection developed through the joyous experience of playing with a large piece of fabric, further exploring the origin of the relationship between the body and the cloth.

The pure act of handling and interacting with fabric—preceding the concept of “clothing”—allows for an understanding of ma (the space in between) in its most primitive, fundamental form. Finding the freedom and generosity within ma, the creative process is anchored in the sensuous realisation of an inexpressible, uplifting feeling.

Embodying this freedom and generosity, Satoshi Kondo and the design team invited pianist Koki Nakano to engage in a dialogue between music composition and clothes-making, where auditory and visual senses inspire one another to give rise to a more intimate integration of music and clothing. The collection captures this collaborative process, resulting in both a sense of airiness found in buoyant playfulness and the ease of being gently enveloped. Ever transforming with the wearer—the figure of ma.

FLUIGLYPH

FLUIGLYPH is a seamless knit series depicting the fluid motion of water. Adapting to the wearer’s body, it stretches and extends in flowing curves. The garter stitches are completed in various widths and in a random arrangement, using yarns of different thicknesses to allow for a more organic portrayal. The sheer and tactile qualities of the material also make the rippling stitches appear sculptural.

BALLOON TWIST

BALLOON TWIST is a series inspired by the movement of a large piece of fabric undulating as it captures air within. Ma (the space in between) is created between the body and garment, allowing for an organic silhouette with its rounded forms. The sculptural garment is hand-twisted and bound with ball-shaped molds inserted into the fabric, creating a delicate, crinkled texture. Woven with monofilament polyester yarn and wool-textured yarn, the fabric finish offers a light sheen and sheer quality.

DRAPED ENSEMBLE

DRAPED ENSEMBLE is a series featuring a bold, sculptural silhouette made possible by draping the body with a single piece of lightweight, yet firm, fabric. Accessories such as scarves can be threaded through the twists and gathers of the drapery, allowing for versatile styling arrangements. Woven with a blend of washi (traditional Japanese paper), the fabric has a subtle crinkled texture that feels weightless on the skin, creating a light and effortless touch.

BILLOW

BILLOW is a series featuring a refreshing sheer fabric with an airy, buoyant feel. Constructed from a single piece of fabric, the voluminous silhouettes create a swaying movement, highlighting the ma between body and garment. Woven with polyester yarn and fine nylon yarn, the lightweight fabric has a delicate, tactile quality.

CAPRICE

CAPRICE is a pleats series that plays with colours. Its simple bi-tubular construction is formed by partly sewing three pieces of rectangular fabrics in different colours, conveying qualities of the colourful, swaying pleats. The sheer fabric is comfortable to touch, with an effortless feel suitable for the spring summer season.

TEMPO PLEATS

TEMPO PLEATS is a series featuring horizontal pleats that bounce with movement, creating a light and lively presence, as though the garment itself were at play. Openings in a single rectangular piece of fabric for the body to pass through allow the flat piece to naturally round into a curved form that holds air around the body. Woven with monofilament polyester yarn in the warp and triacetate-polyester nep-slub yarn in the weft, the fabric has a cool, crisp texture.

BUBBLE (INK MARBLING)

BUBBLE (INK MARBLING) is a print series featuring an ink-marbling technique on translucent organza with a lustrous sheen reminiscent of a soap bubble. Inspired by balloons, each print is hand-painted by artisans in Kyoto by dripping pigment onto water, highlighting qualities of vibrancy in the billowy forms.

BALLOONING

BALLOONING is a defining series of this season, inspired by the form of a balloon enveloping the body. Designed with a short front and a long back, it draws in air as if breathing with the wearer’s movement. Gathering the hem with a drawstring creates a gently rounded silhouette. Made from a ripstop fabric woven with especially fine, lightweight nylon yarn, the garment feels remarkably light and crisp.

COCOON BODY

COCOON BODY is a new series of wearable body forms derived from ISSEY MIYAKE’s ongoing investigation into physicality and sensuousness. Created in collaboration with Wacoal Corp., COCOON BODY adapted the Japanese intimate apparel company’s original “Melooop”1 technology.

This project explored the potential of “Melooop”¹*, a proprietary three-dimensional molding technology developed by Wacoal Corp. originally for molding brassiere cups, based on the melt-blown process²*. By attaching a torso mold to a robotic arm, the partnership has adapted Melooop for garment production, establishing a new methodology for clothes-making.

Inspired by the physicality of the human body, COCOON BODY is molded by spraying melted resin, akin to a silkworm spinning its cocoon. The subtlety of the maker’s hand, expressed through the way the dampened garments were draped on the torso mannequins, was captured by 3D-scanning and then translated into the mold. Representing both the torso and the fabric down to the finest detail, the resulting form is more than a replica: it contains the memory of wearing.

*1 A technology developed by Wacoal Corp. in 2020 to create three-dimensional objects using the melt-blown process, with its first application in the production of brassiere cups. A robotic arm is fitted under a spraying device, programmed to move with finesse as it catches the melted resin to adjust the shape, thickness, and elasticity of the finished product. Through Melooop, trimmings or excess material from the process can be turned back into raw material, allowing for zero-waste production.

*2 A technology in which resin pellets are melted with heat, extruded through spinning nozzles, and drawn out by high-speed hot air into ultrafine fibers, which thermally fuse together to form nonwoven fabric without adhesives. The source of COCOON BODY’s material contains 60% plant-based resin pellets.

CAMPER x ISSEY MIYAKE
Peu Lift

Based on the partnership’s themes of heritage, playfulness, and physicality, Peu Lift integrates Camper’s barefoot-feeling icon “Peu” with ISSEY MIYAKE design. The result is a refined, playful interpretation of traditional Japanese footwear that speaks to both brands’ design languages.

The arched heel is shaped as Camper’s emblematic bridge logo. Peu is “lifted” while its signature wide-fit anatomical last offers grounded comfort. The soft premium leather uppers feature an asymmetrical design around the toes, covering only the big toe on one sandal and the rest on the other.

CAMPER x ISSEY MIYAKE
Peu Formula

An evolution of the partnership’s first footwear line Peu Form, Peu Formula is a crystallised interpretation of Peu Form’s original leather silhouette, transforming it into a lightweight, wearable sculpture.

Built upon Camper’s barefoot-feeling icon “Peu”, Peu Formula’s design is molded from a worn pair of Peu Form, capturing the organic contours, natural irregularities, and the memory of movement. Form becomes Formula, a metaphor for a design reproduced and distilled as if through a chemistry process.

The monomaterial style is realised with XL EXTRALIGHT® Organix™ 3.0 (with 30% bio-circular compounds), making it fully recyclable at the end of its life.

Please click the link below to view all looks of this collection.