On Wednesday, 18 June, HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE presented its Spring Summer 2026 collection titled Amid Impasto of Horizons as the Guest of Honor of Pitti Immagine Uomo 108, at the Villa Medicea della Petraia in Florence—a site closely associated with the Medici family.

This collection is inspired by the natural and cultural landscapes of Italy; its creative process is derived from a journey with a paint brush—gathering colours from abundant nature and the vernacular fabric of Italian cities, combining them with new ideas and familiar elements along the way. Inspired by the minutiae of the everyday person's everyday life, this collection explores a new frontier of conventional dressing at Pitti Uomo, marking the first location of HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE’s new chapter.

The set design of the collection presentation and the scenography were designed by Andrea Faraguna & Michael Kleine who drew inspiration from the tranquil beauty of the villa—its historical, Tuscan architecture and the 16th century Medician gardens that have been maintained for centuries. A fine orchestration of sprinklers, which blends with the timeless scenery, presents a respectful and subtle enactment to represent how lively the gardens would have been.

TAILORED PLEATS

In addition to the signature two-button jacket, this TAILORED PLEATS development offers a wide range of styles, including a new long collarless jacket and a long double-breasted jacket. The construction of these jackets has been refined down to the finest details to emphasize the tailored look.

PAINTER’S GEAR

PAINTER’S GEAR is inspired by the need for functional workwear to store tools used for colour sampling on-location. The pockets, varying in shape and size, are not only suited for carrying brushes, paints, and other art supplies, but are also practical for everyday essentials. Worn over shirts or jackets, this series offers both functionality and versatile styling options.

LINEN LIKE

LINEN LIKE is a tailored series featuring a linen-like texture that does not stick to the skin. The subtle sheen adds a refreshing touch to the spring summer season. Compared with the brand's signature fluid jersey fabrics, LINEN LIKE is firmer in materiality, allowing for sharper, more defined silhouettes.

PALETTE

PALETTE is a print series of the very painting palettes that the design team used for mixing paints to match colours found in the Italian landscape and architecture. Each of the prints shows traces of the colour-mixing, as well as the presence of handwork: a true depiction of the process.

PAINT BRUSH CLOSE-UP

PAINT BRUSH CLOSE-UP captures the paints that have built up on the tip of a brush as the result of colour-mixing, creating natural gradients from the bristles to the base of the brush that show the depth of layered colours.

CARRIER CARRIED

CARRIER CARRIED was inspired by the idea of wearing a garment bag. When not worn, this series’ packable design can be folded into the shape of a garment bag. It’s a playful yet practical series that translates the very bag used to transport clothing into clothing itself—clothing that can carry its wearer somewhere new.

CIOCCOLATO

The tip of the CIOCCOLATO shoe style is a combination of two distinct toe shapes: the oblique toe and the chisel toe. The design, bearing resemblance to a bar of chocolate, is realized with a matte finish, creating a formal yet playful silhouette.

Introducing OPEN STUDIO

Starting with Pitti Immagine Uomo, HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE is traveling around the world to present its clothing in places and at events where it has never been before. Under the name “OPEN STUDIO”, HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE will connect with local communities and a global creative scene.

Referencing the practice of artists opening their workspace to viewers, OPEN STUDIO is the means through which our brand opens itself to the world and provides global audiences an immersive experience of our design and making.

For this special event at Pitti Immagine Uomo 108, the first OPEN STUDIO has two components that complement each other: a presentation of the collection and an exhibition that gives a behind the scenes look of the brand’s design and making. Directed and designed by Misawa Design Institute, Nippon Design Centre, this exhibition is in collaboration with the design team of HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE, a showcase of the research and development of the collection as well as what is yet to be explored about our pleating technology.

Exhibition introduction

HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE’s design and making is founded upon comprehensive research and development. The creative process begins with observing and scrutinizing the subject of interest—an image, an idea, or a phenomenon—followed by the syntheses of the findings into vocabularies relevant to clothes-making, generating a dynamic loop of discovery and experimentation.

It is during this process that, given its exploratory nature, unexpected and unintended elements present themselves. These serendipitous moments serve as seedlings of creativity and are further developed through a series of studies, later translated into products designed for modern lifestyles.

This exhibition Amid Impasto of Horizons presents a survey of the studious research and development that have led to the fruition of the eponymous Spring Summer 2026 collection, juxtaposed with a landscape of pleated, sculptural explorations that depict what is yet to be discovered about the brand’s original pleating technology.

Looping around the expanse of the villa is a thematic curation of objects from the studio studies and experiments inspired by the team’s fieldwork in Florence and other Italian cities, examining the making of colours, fabrics, and garments of the collection.

Interspersed inside and outside the loop of curated objects is a series of sculptural studies that extends beyond the collection, exploring and grasping formal qualities of the pleated fabric, with a strong emphasis on the spontaneous, if not ephemeral, beauty found within the process.

As the title proposes, this exhibition and the collection reflect the many layers of research and development—accepting and adapting the unpredictable nature of the creative process. What lies in between the layers expands into picturesque vistas, connecting past experiences to future practice.

A quote from exhibition director

Connected to the collection, this exhibition is deeply rooted in the design team’s process of research and development. It is the product of a close collaboration, from idea to realization, between the Misawa Design Institute at Nippon Design Centre and the HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE design team. Not familiar with working with textiles, we were fascinated by the freedom we found in the versatility of the pleated fabrics—sculptural and transformative, other worldly. This exhibition [referring to the sculptural explorations] is a demonstration of how we have engaged with the material, where we enveloped, covered, wrapped, folded, and layered it, allowing the fabric to form itself.

— Misawa Design Institute, Nippon Design Centre, Inc.
Haruka Misawa

Please click the link below to view all looks of this collection.