28.09.2024 | ISSEY MIYAKE SPRING SUMMER 2025 COLLECTION
Presented on Friday, 27 September 2024, at a pavilion in Parc Floral de Paris, the ISSEY MIYAKE SPRING SUMMER 2025 collection, The Beauty of Paper is an investigation of paper, the ubiquitous material used in everyday living, including washi (traditional Japanese paper), to explore not only its textural qualities but the feelings it evokes.
What is it about paper that makes us feel at ease? Starting with this question, the research and development of the collection focused on the history, making, and craft of paper. These findings inspired the materials, techniques, and designs through a variety of experimental sartorial studies. The garments created this way honour the work of craftspeople, manifested through an array of textures. They convey the qualities and the poetry found in paper that are relevant to modern times and at the same time resonate with the primitive past.
As another application of the research, the stools used at the venue are created from cylinders of compressed sheets of paper—the byproduct of the ISSEY MIYAKE pleating technology. The cylinders, intended for easy recycling, are cut at a certain height, an adaptation for guest use. The marbling of its cross section resembles the tree rings found in a log, suggesting the passing of time.
To illustrate the history of papermaking, the collection presents a series of kamiko (garments made from washi) that are made from 100% fine hemp fibres. Created first as prototypes during research, this series represents the brand’s intention to continue the practice of this historic craft that has existed for more than ten centuries in Japan, now in the form of original garment designs.
EAU
Inspired by water and the concept of a piece of cloth, the EAU series is designed with soft, transparent woven fabric fastened on the inside to create the draping. The movement and folds of the lustrous fabric resemble water flowing and glistening.
FOLD TO FORM
FOLD TO FORM features a three-dimensional folded design, like that of a box or origami, made with a fabric that is the brand’s latest development in washi fabric. Yarn made from slivers of washi and rayon-silk are woven with stretch yarn; the resulting fabric retains the same stretchiness but is lighter in weight, giving the angular silhouette suppleness that fits the wearer’s body.
EASE AND EASED
EASE AND EASED is a woven series that mirrors the same designs as the kamiko to convey the collection concept. Hemp yarn is used for the warp and blended mohair and wool yarn is used for the weft. The subtle variance in colour of the dyed yarn emphasizes the warmth and depth of the texture. The silhouette makes use of how the fabric drapes and adapts to the wearer’s body—light and airy, designed in a way that can be laid flat like paper.
HEMPEN
HEMPEN is a woven series made of 100% hemp, which has been used since ancient times as a raw material for paper and clothing, sustaining people’s lives. The fabric is dyed then coated to create functionality for modern times while still retaining its natural light and comfortable characteristics.
WEAR AND WORN
WEAR AND WORN is a series created based on the unique idea of knitting two pieces of clothing together, a challenge realized by seamless knitting technology. The design is an integration of technology and playfulness. By putting the body through either one of the garments, or by reversing the front and back, the wearer can enjoy wearing it in various ways. The use of cotton-polyester yarn gives it a light, soft texture.
PRESSED FLORA
PRESSED FLORA is a series of delicate prints of springtime peonies, ranunculus, and asparagus leaves. The prints reflect the changes in colour and texture that occur during the process of making pressed fresh flowers. The pressing process applied to the garments incidentally creates small wrinkles in the fabric, highlighting the fragility of the flowers and the material.
CLOTH AND CORD
CLOTH AND CORD features a clothing construction using whole pieces of fabric, giving a primitive impression. This rawness is complemented by the cotton cord ties which highlight the craftsmanship behind the series. Linen yarn and stretch yarn are woven together to create a fabric that is flexible and light in texture. The fabric is gathered and tied with cotton cords to create drapes for a more relaxed silhouette.
SHADE AND SHADED
SHADE AND SHADED is a pleated series characterized by its sheer fabric that is folded diagonally and partially pleated, creating a contrast between the transparency of washi paper and the sharpness of the pleats. It is structured, yet gives a feeling of sensuousness.
PAPER BAG
PAPER BAG is inspired by ubiquitous paper bags, both in shape and construction. The bags are made by pressing a fabric that holds its form when woven with yarn made from slivers of washi, to give them the texture and lightness of paper, and the durability for daily use.
Please click the link below to view all looks of this collection.
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